The Colorado River, from Hoover Dam to Willow Beach

Water Clarity – 10 (‘purity’ would be less)

Natural Quality – 10 (even with the traffic)

The Colorado River at mm 60


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Nevada, and Las Vegas were obstacles that had to be put behind – a single ride down ‘the strip’ was good enough for me.  As I rode through the number and movement of folks moving out of and into the attractions along the sidewalk reminded me of ants working on their mounds – and it was early in the day.

For the most part my objective was to ‘ride’ the Colorado River from Hoover Dam to Willow Beach (above ‘Lake Mojave’) and this was one of those things that was rattling in my ‘bucket-list.’  I had called ahead to Boulder City for some preliminary information on a shuttle (getting dropped off at the dam) and having my vehicle at Willow Beach (the normal ‘take-out’ point for the excursion) just takes $$.

Then to find that a ‘permit’ is also necessary from the National Park Service, now I’m a ‘play-it-by-ear’ kinda person so I wasn’t surprised to find that slots for permits were filled for the next 4-days – no big deal because I’m also a little thrifty, so my option was to go to Willow Beach, touch the water and figure it out.

Willow Beach is 14 miles on the far side of the Hoover Dam (hwy 93), again a simple ride – had read and watched many programs on the Dam so it would be neat to drive across it.

There was a crowd of folks – before, during, and across the Hoover Dam (evidently it was the 75th anniversary or something) all was alive with construction, traffic, and doggone people – like someone had stepped on that ant-bed and now the ants were swarming – naturally I move when the red-ants swarm …. so my tour lasted about like the main strip of Vegas – a drive through, I didn’t come to mingle – I came to paddle…

After the Dam there was a sign that pointed to Willow Beach, and then five more miles down a secondary into the desert.  At the Willow Beach Marina I backed down the ramp and stuck my foot in – brrrr, the water comes out of the dam at 54 degrees, not much warmer here – a paradox? doggone hot outside – and definitely cool in the water.

It fit, so I loaded most of my stuff (forgot my note-pad) and started paddlin – upstream.  The current is not all that noticeable at first – nothing like The Silver River, which I kinda use as a gauge for meeting current challenges; if I could paddle and enjoy that river – then this should be possible also.  Paddlin upstream is just a matter of ‘hugging’ the wall, keeping the motion, and taking advantage of any ‘slow-water’ along the way.

In the distance I noticed others ahead paddling upstream also, surprised to see them and then more surprised to catch up with them without changing my pace.  Ended up paddling alongside and conversing with Dawn (a corporate trainer from Phoenix) whom had organized her group through Desert Adventures out of Las Vegas.  Her sister (Angela) was in the group and an Officer for (Denver or Phoenix) the Fire Department, simple conversation – soon as they stopped for a break I remained in motion and paddled on.

For some reason I was expecting the Colorado River to be muddy, it was awesome – a solid 10 on clarity, you could see the bottom at thirty feet easily – another similarity to The Silver River.  Now ‘purity may be more in question, I did see ‘stuff’ (particles) up the river that made me think not to use the water for sustenance – but still the clarity on this section of the Colorado was on the opposite end of the scale of the Mississippi, which was less than 4.

I continued to ‘work’ any ‘dead’ water I could find – usually along the wall or shore out of the main current.  I also learned later that the amount of water coming ‘down the pike’ (from Hoover) is relative and fluctuates as to how many folks in LA had their air-conditioners running, well – there was a heat wave in LA and I had put in at lunch time – you figure… They were making power at the dam for sure and I couldn’t get any closer to the wall… I was just too stupid to know and it was better that way (I’ve learned ‘overthinking’ can be a detriment).

But I did make reasonable headway.  There are mile-markers on the river too, Willow Beach is at the 52, The Hoover Dam is at the 64 – I made it to the 60 which I thought was appropriate (Life at 60) and enough because it was now 4 in the afternoon and the folks in LA were getting home from work and turning on more air-conditioners, I was at a point where at the moment there was no ‘dead-water’ and shoals ahead – noticing a beach on the other side I angled across and paddled like crazy….. great place to set up camp for the night.

There were even two ‘crappers’ and a hot-spring there – an inviting and well used stop. Found out later in speaking with other kayakers about this ‘hot-spot’ on the river (Arizona Hot Springs).

With the tent pitched, my glaucoma treated, and a bird-bath (in the ‘fresh’ water) I ‘kicked-back’ in something as good as a lawn chair (my kayak) and enjoyed a premixed cranberry juice/tequila drink (a “waggitt adder”).  My neighbors Bruce and Mike were good in light conversation even though they inferred that some drinkers were trouble-makers (the kayakers vs ‘doggone’ people thing), they were ok guys and I continued to make notes on my paddle with a sharpie (forgot my note-pad) as the water flow and shoreline fluctuated – the folks in LA must have been turning their air-conditioners down some.  The river lowered and slowed and then somewhere in the night 4 other paddlers arrived for the weekend….

First thing in the morning I ‘broke-camp’ and paddled up river another half-mile – just to be sure that I had made the 60 mm, I feel like with the calmer water conditions one just might make the dam 4 miles further up – but having this little circle in my life satisfied I drifted past camp and started the slow ride back down river….

It was peaceful being pointed downriver, one guy was working his way upstream with an extra kayak and the morning fleet of tourist rafts were not far behind headed up to the dam to pick up their loads of sightseers….

It was an easy paddle and there was plenty of time to check-out the ‘in’s and out’s of all the ‘nooks and cranny’s’ along the way.

Since putting in I have seen Bald-eagles, hawks, and numerous big-horn sheep in their natural habitat, it was also interesting how the ‘big-horns’ walk the cliffs high above the river in search of food – as a gentle mist fell I wondered if they were able to get enough moisture from the plants for sustenance – certainly it was too steep to come down to the water…

But wait a minute, human life forms ahead – turned out to be Dawn’s group so I stopped and chatted with Angela about Fire Department stuff as they loaded for the day, they were working their way further up river for a camp adventure.

With that intermission I needed to get my mind back on the river,

and the ‘nook’s and cranny’s’ along the way – or jump in,

paddling helps,

soon afterward I noticed two separate groups of big-horn working their way down an old hiking trail,

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right to waters edge where they took a long hard drink.  I drifted right into them and sat stoically in the kayak as the oldest ‘buck’ took a long hard drink – didn’t seem to mind at all as I passed.

The younger bull gave the older a wide-berth and kept a respectable distance.

As I began nearing Willow Beach more kayakers appeared headed upriver, so I guess its a common thing..

there were also two (2) bald-eagles dropping down for fish – couldn’t get a better picture.

back to ‘Willow Beach.’

Back at the boat-ramp there was there was a blend of sunlight and dark clouds (with lightning in them) all under desert conditions, interesting and dangerous yet beautiful in combination.  As for the paddle, it was perfect and as good if not better than starting at the Dam, plus – it was free…

So if Paddling down the Colorado is on your list of things to do, plan ahead and get an outfitter to help you ($$) or simply take the paddle option from Willow Beach up river to at least the 60, earn your ‘river-time.’

It’s well worth the effort and with the heat the water felt wonderful.

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Where the Colorado River begins, Will and Zak know

Source to The Sea, 2011.